Unicycle tuning

Unicycle tuning

Nowadays almost everything is tuned: cars, computers, cell phones, toasters and training wheels. So why not tune unicycles?

Unicycle Tuning:

What can be tuned on a unicycle? All!! Saddle, fork, tire, rim, hub, pedals, seat post, bolts, thicker, thinner, lighter, heavier, taller, shorter, cheaper, better!

In order to modify the unicycle sensibly, you should first think about what you want to do with your unicycle. Touring, trialling, freestyling, munin, or racing this requires namely completely different partly even completely opposite measures.

Racing wheel tuning:

The allowed max wheel diameter for official unicycle racing is 24.33″. Thus, this measurement must be achieved as closely as possible. A tire as narrow as possible with a large rim diameter is recommended: to achieve the lowest possible rolling and air resistance and small moment of inertia. The 26″ rim will allow you to get the bike going faster when starting out. In return, of course, the tire must be particularly narrow not to exceed 24,33″. Poorer damping properties are offset by minimal friction. To fill the tire with helium instead of air has often been considered, but is not common. Hydrogen is completely discouraged. 😉

Trial Tuning:

Fat tire:

To survive high drops without destroying the unicycle. 2.5″ on 20″ and 3″ on 24″ rims are already standard by now. However, to turn a standard unicycle into a trial requires more than a 2″ thick tire (note the tube must also be suitable for the larger shell). Problems usually arise quickly with hub. Cranks that do not withstand the jumps.

Magnesium pedals:

A few grams can be saved, but you have to pay attention to grip. Good, preferably changeable pins are a must. If you want to grind with your unicycle are the Mg pedals but wrong! The pedals are breaking! More important than the material is that you have a good grip on the pedals.

Carbon saddle plate:

For a stable, light and almost indestructible saddle, some people build a carbon plate into their Miyata or KH saddle.

Turn over fork:

Especially if it goes high, it is practical to direct the Sattlklemme forward. Bruises on the knees can be avoided so easily.

Muni Tuning:

Rim brakes:

Especially for long descents and steep passages helpful to relieve the thighs and because a better braking performance is achieved because you can not only brake with horizontal pedal position. Thus, in addition, the profile is also spared or. More evenly worn.

Air cushioned saddle (Airseat):

For more seating comfort. On long tours very pleasant. Guide to do it yourself

Metal grip:

Higher stability, but more weight and greater risk of injury are pretty much in balance. Used metal handle from racing unicycles to muni.

Weight tuning:

Saddle bar:

Cutting the seat post to the right length will save you a few grams of weight, but only makes sense if you don't change your saddle height. So don't put the saw on until you know what your optimal saddle height is.

Titanium screws

Titanium screws*g* a few grams can be saved. I find this weight saving however somewhat overpriced.

Carbon fork:

There is as far as I know for unicycles only a unicycle fork made of carbon, to acquire with unicycle.Uk.Com and accordingly expensive.

Where can still save weight? The most useful thing is not to tune the unicycle but to tune yourself, so practice practice practice practice. Maybe the one or other gram of fat can be rationalized away.

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