Wash your car the Japanese way. Car care tips& Tricks
Wash your car the Japanese way. Car care tips& Tricks
Spring and summer are the times of year when we definitely like to put more thought into car care. This is also understandable, because the conditions are favorable, and the effect can please the eye much longer than in the winter season. Many car owners choose to entrust their vehicle to the professionals in car washes or the detailing studios that are becoming more and more popular, but some of them, for their own pleasure, will choose to do the job themselves and it is exactly for them that we have prepared this little guide. How to prepare a car for waxing so that the effect is perfect and lasts for months? It is a fact that regular washing is not enough, but a few professional car cosmetics and a bit of knowledge are enough for the car to regain its factory shine!
PRE-WASHING
If the car is very dirty and mud and sand are visible on the surface, perform a prewash with a pressure washer and an active foam or spray gun. The foam softens the dirt and the pressure allows you to safely remove sand particles that, if not removed, would later scratch the paintwork.
MAIN WASH
Refrain from using car washes, better perform a thorough hand wash! The high-pressure water removes only coarse dirt, but a thin film of road grime remains on the paintwork. Use a sponge or wash mitt to spread the shampoo foam and a brush to get it into the nooks and crannies.
Shampooing is the first stage of paint preparation. The goal is to clean your car from all the dirt that sticks to the surface. The shampoo itself is a very simple product – just apply it to a sponge or dilute it in water and then spread it evenly. Shampoo loosens and dissolves dirt, which is then rinsed off with water. The application is as simple as it is gratifying.
Neutral Creamy Shampoo gives an amazing glide and a thick lather, but most importantly, it rinses off easily even when completely dry, so no need to rush!
When washing, use a brush to get into the nooks and crannies of the body, apply the foam around emblems, the grille, air intakes and other hard-to-reach places to remove all dirt. For stubborn dirt, use Stain Cleaner, the all-purpose cleaner from Soft99.
Our tip: professionals use the "two-bucket method" at. One bucket is filled with water and shampoo solution, the other contains clean water for sponge or glove rinsing. This leaves less dirt on the paint and reduces the risk of creating micro scratches and swirls. When you're done, rinse the car thoroughly and dry it with a towel.
RIM CLEANING
Brake dust? Flash rust? Metallic deposits? If you are now thinking of dirty rims, you are right! But you should know that this type of dirt can settle on the paint just as easily and is very difficult to see with the naked eye. This is the perfect job for a rim cleaner. What is it. How it works? It usually comes in liquid or gel form and when it comes into contact with metallic deposits, it simply dissolves them and turns them an intense purple color. This is the so-called bleeding rim effect, but don't worry – this effect is quite normal and no elements of the car are affected. After the main wash, apply to the paint on the front of the car and in the area of the wheel wells and on the rims, let it work for a few minutes, use a cleaning brush for stubborn stains, rinse with a high-pressure cleaner. That's it! On to the next step.
ASPHALT STAINS, TREE RESINS AND INSECT REMAINS
Take a closer look at the paint, especially around the wheel wells and on the sides of the vehicle. If you notice black dots or spots that can be clearly felt with your finger, you can be sure that it is asphalt/tar. On hot days, when the road surface becomes soft, the tires pick up the asphalt particles like Velcro and fling them directly onto the paintwork. It is a very bad idea to use brute force to work on and remove these stains. You need an effective chemical solution. Try New Pitch Cleaner, apply it to the affected areas, wait a few minutes until the dirt begins to loosen, and remove the residue with the pressure washer or a soft microfiber cloth.
New Pitch Cleaner also removes stubborn insect residue from the front of the car or sticky tree sap and bird droppings.
CLAY BAR APPLICATION
If at this stage the varnish already seems perfectly clean, we suggest a little experiment. Run the outside of your hand over the body of the vehicle in several places. If the paint is NOT mirror smooth? Then it's time for a clay bar! The plasticine acts like a magnet for dirt stuck in the paintwork. Give it a better glide with a solution of water and shampoo and start moving it over the varnish. You don't have to use any force – just the light pressure of your fingers. Once the surface is clean, you will feel the dough glide smoothly. Be careful though – as soon as the side of the dough you are using gets dirty, fold it inward and continue with the clean side. Make sure that the clay bar always has the right glide and does not fall on the ground. A dirty piece is not suitable for further use.
SPECIAL CLEANER
The next step is to use a special cleaner, which is the penultimate stage of decontamination. To understand how it works, it is important to understand that the paint, although seemingly smooth, has a porous structure. The road surface and the remains of waxes and other sealants are trapped in these pores. Our Micro Liquid Compound Cleaner penetrates effortlessly into those hard-to-reach places. Effectively removes even the most stubborn deposits. It also contains fine abrasive particles and fillers that effectively improve the condition of the paint by smoothing out and concealing minor imperfections and micro-scratches. The application of the cleaner is very simple – apply the product on the black side of the included applicator and gently rub it on the body of the car, then wipe everything with a towel or a microfiber cloth. However, be sure to work in small sections so as not to let the residue dry out. You can also work on a wet surface – this makes things a little easier – when you're done, just rinse the car with a pressure washer and dry it with a towel.
DEGREASER
Last but not least, degreasing, which is the icing on the cake when it comes to paint preparation! Silicone Off, one of the strongest degreasers on the market, is responsible for removing oily road film and residue from polishing compounds. The surface to which Silicone Off has been applied is completely decontaminated, which guarantees maximum adhesion between the wax and the paintwork. Simply apply the degreaser to a microfiber cloth and wipe it over the paint. It makes a huge difference!
WAX APPLICATION
We are on the home stretch! Your well decontaminated paint is ready for waxing. The most important rule to mention at the very beginning – more does not mean better. On the contrary, the thinner the wax layer is on the surface, the easier it is to polish out and the better the final result will be. Excess wax greatly increases the likelihood of streaking on the paint and makes your job more difficult. With these findings, we can begin the application process. Wet the applicator by placing it in water and then squeezing it out. Next, apply a small amount of wax to the applicator by gently squeezing and moving it around in the can, then spread the wax in a crisscrossing motion, as thinly and evenly as possible. After applying the wax, wait a few minutes until a light white residue appears, and only then can you start polishing it off. If no residue is visible and you are not sure if you can buff out, do the finger test. If, after touching the paint with your finger, the wax still allows to spread instead of being rubbed off, this is a sign that you still have to wait. Also remember to never apply the wax to the entire car at once. Work on smaller areas (we recommend working surfaces no larger than a quarter of the hood of a mid-size car) while watching what happens to the wax. Do not move on to the next part until you have completely finished the previous one.
The process of application should now be clear, but which wax to choose? The answer varies from person to person – it depends on the effect you want, the durability of the wax or your budget. A popular choice is the ultra-strong Fusso Coat 12-month wax, which is based on fluoropolymers (PTFE) and provides satisfaction all season long. For detailing enthusiasts who love the natural feel of old-school waxes, we recommend the Authentic Premium wax with the highest carnauba content for a stunning, show-car look. There are also popular intermediate options like the Extreme Gloss "Kiwami"-Wax that combines durability with the strengths of natural waxes.